Patek Philippe Aquanaut 18K

About the Watch

Inspired by the iconic Patek Philippe Nautilus—a stainless steel luxury sports watch first introduced in the 1970s—the Patek Philippe Aquanaut emerged in the late 1990s. Initially released as model 5060S, the Aquanaut bore a porthole-shaped case similar to the Nautilus and featured Roman numerals on its dial, paired with an elegant leather strap. This design gave it a dressier look than the Nautilus 3800, though initially, it was offered only in a gold case. The following year, Patek Philippe launched the 5060A, a nearly identical model with a more durable stainless steel case and a robust rubber strap.

While originally marketed under the Nautilus collection, these 5060 models are now recognized as early Aquanaut models. Patek Philippe attributes the creation of the Aquanaut to a request from a mysterious, influential client who wanted a refined yet rugged watch to gift high-ranking military officers. To this day, the client’s identity and the nation receiving the watches remain unknown. The military inspiration behind the Aquanaut is evident in its distinctive checkerboard ‘Tropical’ rubber strap, resembling tire treads and engineered for durability, with composite materials resistant to saltwater and UV radiation—a practical choice for active duty. The strap’s texture extends to the dial, which is patterned in a checkerboard style reminiscent of a grenade’s surface, enhancing the watch’s tough, modern aesthetic. The Aquanaut’s softened octagonal porthole design, however, retains a sense of elegance, merging modernity with tradition and giving it timeless appeal.

In the late 1990s, as the trend leaned toward larger, more elaborate luxury watches, the Aquanaut offered a refreshing alternative with its understated 36mm diameter and minimalist, practical look. This sleek, pared-back style resonated with younger enthusiasts upon its debut. Today, the Aquanaut remains a sporty, youthful watch that retains its practicality, even when upgraded with stainless steel or diamond details.

This model comes as a full set with its original presentation box and certificate of origin.

About the Brand

The Manufacture was established in 1875 in Le Brassus, a village at the heart of La Vallée-de-Joux in the Swiss Jura, by Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet, two enterprising young men who combined their talent to develop and produce watches featuring rare complications. Already in these early days, an Audemars-Piguet watch was prized by admirers of fine mechanical timepieces. Through determination, imagination and discipline, they inscribed their name on the wider history of watchmaking. The company they established has never left the hands of the founding families.